Eliciting emotional reactions to pack and products through tactile elements seemed to be a carefully crafted strategy among many of the exhibitors at this year’s MakeUp in Paris (MUP), held at the Carrousel du Louvre, June 14-15. Of course, walking along the picturesque Seine and through the Louvre environs to MUP’s entry among ancient statuary relics, had already fired up attendees’ senses. Expectations for the show built further as the lengthy admissions line moved forward.

Now celebrating its 13th edition, MakeUp in Paris, has always been known for its creative energy, upbeat mood and product innovation. The event added a dual emphasis on Skincare several years ago and this year drew 150 exhibitors, many with specializations in both categories. Organizers report a record-breaking number of 4,579 attendees, which was an increase of 28% compared to last year.

A display of MUP’s famed Innovation Awards (see this year’s top winners here), for outstanding achievements in formulation, full service, accessories and packaging, was presented in glass dome cases just inside the entrance. (The winners were announced later in the day.)

Brisk business started up on the show floor as soon as the doors opened. I saw order forms appearing and meetings commencing. Exhibitors also took advantage of the prime opportunity for networking at the show, and there seemed to be a lot of collaborative business conversation going on. It truly seems to take a “cosmetics industry village” to bring to fruition the many aspects of the supplier side—with more and more providers teaming up for outstanding results in a challenging environment.

Trends and Highlights

Trends and highlights on the show floor included numerous refillable options; flexible packaging/pouches; clean beauty/clean packaging; an emphasis on applicators (maybe as a luxe touch to a simple bottle and cap—or as a focus for a lovely and memorable experience); customized cardboard palettes; mono-material components (including airless); and an array of various eco packaging.

Color palettes with numerous pans were an especially noticeable highlight. Many were embellished with gorgeous detailed decoration for powder thanks to new patented technologies. Advances in applicators and deco created buzz and memorable products, and hopefully loyalty-inspired touches as the industry continues its advances in meeting sustainable packaging requirements. Above all, “bling” seemed to be the thing!

In fact, some suppliers told me that many brands are after only the bling, demanding standout design and color over other credentials. Some say larger brands are more concerned with sustainability than smaller brands, while others say smaller brands insist on eco-packaging as part of their DNA. Clearly, there’s still a mixture of tastes, regulations and bumpy roads, as the global industry moves forward and continues to thrive as a whole.

New certifications from formulation to packaging appeared, including one for a TUV Australia certification for home composting, at Taesung. Some companies said they were working to replace ABS components to meet the 2025 EU ban on the material.

Post-show, Sandra Maguarian, co-founder and director of the MakeUp in shows, commented: “This record-breaking edition of MakeUp in Paris was a catalyst for inspiration. From visionary trends to impactful connections, the show exemplified the transformative power of skincare and makeup. We witnessed an unprecedented surge of innovation, passion, and business that redefined the boundaries of cosmetics and, I must admit that I am proud to produce with my team, events with such power—and can’t wait to duplicate it in New York City in September.”

In addition to the exhibitor floor, more than 50 industry experts participated in educational sessions throughout the two days, exploring topics and trends such as inclusivity, waterless beauty, artificial intelligence, sustainability, and the evolving preferences of Gen Z consumers.

Following are some of the exhibitors and the innovations I noted as I made my way around the bustling show floor. I have listed them in alphabetical order:

EXHIBITORS

A&H Cosmetics
Based in China, and with a NA team, A&H Cosmetics explained that they have a patent-pending slurry process to create their beautiful pressed powders for their compacts. Christine Gvazdaitis, VP sales America, commented on the importance of texture and high-performance, in addition to the decorative techniques. “Everything’s customized—it’s a one-stop shop,” said Gvazdaitis. “Customers want to move fast—and move now!”

Allta
Eye-popping multiple pan full-service palettes were a hit at Allta, where president and CEO David Berkman said business was brisk—especially in Europe. Some are all eye or lip colors; others combine highlighters, concealers and color. Berkman told me, “It’s all about texture and detail that give POP to the product—whether in-store or online.” Allta now offers fine detailed digital printing on top of the powders, which he says “no one else is doing.”

What’s selling? Berkman says “Anything with texture to bring it to life—not flat.” They are also doing some hybrid color products that have some skincare characteristics “to give the customer an added plus to regular color products.” A lip gloss in a hard acrylic tube rather than a flexible tube also drew attention.

Axilone
Axilone’s stand was robust with beautiful packaging. I spoke with Morgan Sochon, communication manager, about some of their gorgeous luxe items, laser etching, high-end aluminum componentry, metallizing, and more. A product for MAC was a simple but elegant black plastic jar and cap using Eastman chemically recycled plastic—with a very thick and luxurious touch and feel.

Another highlight was a stunning Christian Dior minaudiere on a long chain, in which the consumer can store lipstick refills for an attached refillable lipstick—and later use as a small purse slung over a shoulder for a night out. Very thin metallized aluminum lipstick packs looked trendy and chic—and almost more like eye pencils.

Beukay Cosmetics
Beukay Cosmetics is a turnkey manufacturer headquartered in Shanghai, with an L.A. office in the U.S., and also an office in the UK, two production facilities in Shanghai, one in Korea, and two coming—one in Paris and one in Japan. The company also offers component design in Shanghai. They have a patent on a lipstick tube that opens with a middle click. MOQ is as low as 2,000 pieces for some packs. In-mold labeling for compacts and jars adds a striking and very textural feel for top plates, etc. Sumptuous, artsy 5-D pixel powders in refillable compacts (with no ABS) were a hit. They also have a global patent on liquid format paste—no pressing process—so it eliminates metal pans.

Brivaplast
Brivaplast, experts in mascara, highlighted their new mascara, having “renewed” the design of the mascara tube with an ergonomic, rounded outer shell containing a soft inner refill. All plastic parts can be molded from recycled PCR materials. The reusable shell parts and refill pouch are customizable.

Eisen
Amid a wide array of colorful cosmetic sharpeners of all sizes, Wolfram Leistner, managing director of Eisen GmbH, explained the difficulties of keeping up with all the different materials that pencils are now made of. Who knew?

He said they have installed their new metal hardening oven—a high-capacity machine to improve the sharpness of their blades. They can run large batches, and the machine allows for better control with reduced energy. In this way, they have been able to keep steel prices in check. They also have automatic labelling deco, and other processes, which work with any material—when assembled with a proper blade and proper material. Many sharpeners are also available in 100% PCR.

FR&PARTNERS
FR & Partners is a Swiss company with more than 20 years of expertise in cosmetic packaging.

Marie Julie Bruneau, sales customer representative, describes their core values as innovation and customer-oriented solutions and services.

Known for their beautiful and reusable high-end ceramic packaging, Bruneau says the company continues to develop luxe and sustainable packaging that’s attractive to consumers both for use—and for their concern for the planet.

FR BELIEVE Compact is a new collection of separable and rechargeable compact cases, available in a luxe matte finish. Designed in 4 different versions: eye shadow, blush, face powder and foundation, all have a dedicated space for the sponge. All parts are easily separable, including frame, mirror and pan, without any glue.

SUE is FR’s cork compound, which allows for several shapes and sizes for various applications and products. Their new shape is specially designed for baked powders.

Geka
Geka’s stand was brimming with vibrant packaging possibilities and decorating techniques, new materials for mascara brushes—and an expansion to more skincare-related tools and turnkey products. Microbristle applicators now extend to face, nail, skin and foot.

Geka’s packaging capabilities (including full service) led to the company being named a finalist in the Packaging category of MUP’s IT Awards. Stefanie Gunz, head of global marketing, explains that Geka’s new eye-catching decorating technique, called Shadow Printing, combines matte and glossy surfaces, enabling “the application of complex personalized elements and patterns onto bottles and closures without additional foil or ink.” Custom shapes, patterns and textures are also available.

HCP Packaging
At HCP, amid a wide collection of options, intricate and eye-popping decorative details stood out. Stephanie Rowntree, global product manager for HCP Group, confirmed the intent, saying, “It’s all in the details—the decorative details.” From luxe Tom Ford items to glittery and fun stock palettes to custom packaging for MAC’s Disney Cruella collections, Rowntre emphasized that shiny and beautiful sell, adding that brands especially need a “wow factor” for online sales

HCP has also expanded its skincare packaging line, notably with its Affinity Airless, which combines “high-performance dispensing with sleek aesthetics” ‘
The Lashes Your Way mascara collection pairs HCP’s bio-based material innovation for molded and fiber brushes. HCP’s Demi-Fluted Collection provides an intriguing linear texture. The collection is a full packaging line-up for lips, eyes and complexion.

IL Cosmetics
At IL Cosmetics. Juanita Parra, marketing manager, showed me two new mascaras they were premiering at MUP. One is a mascara that can be removed with just warm water, so no makeup remover or scrubbing is needed. The second is a tubing mascara called “Naturally Tubing,” which has a high percentage of “naturality.” It features a biodegradable polymer, with a small plastic brush—ideal for all, but especially those with “a petite faces and eyes.”

Jia Hsing
“Less is more” at Jia Hsing, based in Taiwan. said Helen Lu, vice president sales. She explained that the company had created a new material, all PP—and ABS-free (to meet 2025’s ban). They have developed beautiful colors in PP—to use color as the emotional magnet rather than typical deco or metallization. “Color alone highlights the idea of nature and sustainability—the package needs only a logo,” said Hsing. Brands on display included Jones Road and Arden.

Libo
Libo won MUP’s IT award for Packaging, with their 100% mono-material aluminum lipstick range, including the cap and the shell—”without creating any plastic waste.” The Venus lipstick has a refillable mechanism that further enhances the ecological aspect of the design. The lipstick case is customizable with a range of luxurious finishes, including matte, satin and gloss metallic.

Libo also displayed compacts and bottles made of 100% PET “and styrene free.”

Lumson
Valentina Dragoni, Lumson’s marketing manager, showed me several innovations including Lumson’s Infinity Collection, a new capsule collection ideal for skincare and makeup products. The new elegant design stands out for its thick bottom with a conical shape. The Italian company, specializing in primary cosmetic packaging, says it has “revolutionized” the concept of luxury with its paper airless packaging, via a pouch—XPaper, putting paper in the spotlight. Lumson’s paper airless option is described as the “perfect combination of smart design, safety, and functionality with a sustainable twist.” A new PP mono-material eco dropper has highly technical functionality and ease of use, while also being 100% sustainable.

Metapack
At Metapack, which showcased an array of luxe packaging, most with metallic touches of some kind, several packs caught my eye. Isaure de La Noue, commerce director, explained that the company works to combine sustainability and design.

As an example, de La Noue showed me a reusable, keepsake compact they had created for makeup artist Fara Homidi. The refillable zamac compact is coated with blue UV cornflower-colored UV plastic. The inner plastic parts are made in Treva, a bio-plastic from Eastman. The refill locks into place, and can be purchased in a small recyclable PP tray. The makeup artist’s line also includes a lipstick with a brush. Bulk is made by Chromavis. Available in four shades, Homidi’s dual-sided color compacts double as refillable keepsakes.

MPackting
MPackting, a U.S. packaging spinoff of 85-year-old international family business Minelli, made the case for not having to use plastics at all—instead relying on solutions in wood, cork, pulp and their trademarked mBlack. According to Corrado Fioroni, the company owns a manufacturing plant in Charlotte, NC in the USA. They specialize in using the scraps of machined wood to create low-carbon packaging. (Wood scraps are usually burned.) MPackting compounds the scraps in injectable biopolymers to create a line of black, refillable containers—which are biodegradable within six months. As of now, these containers are available only in luxe, striking “mBlack.” A large percentage of their work is currently custom components.

Pibiplast
Mascaras to fit your mood was the theme at Italian developer and manufacturer Pibiplast. As mood influences what makeup you want to wear daily, make a choice in the morning to fit your mood. Pibiplast’s second collection was presented, with solutions targeting eyelashes and lips. Cheek products are also available.

Pibiplast’s Due, a finalist in the IT awards for sustainability, uses only two components. The bottle and wiper are molded in one piece; and the cap and rod are molded in one piece. According to Pibiplast, the benefits are shorter production, less emission, less plastic, and lighter weight. The mono-material line is made entirely of PP or PET.

Mary Beretta, head of product marketing management at Pibiplast, told me the company is “moving all packaging to mono-material solutions—but the migration is long…”

Raphael
At Raphael Make-Up Brushes, Sara Lory, cosmetic brushes director, was highlighting their new, decorative brush line under the colorful name ‘Pimp My Brush.’ Lory explained that Pimp My Brush is an artistic collaboration between a painter and a brush manufacturer, with the aim “to introduce the artist to our community, promote his/her work and create one or more unique makeup brushes.” This second edition of Raphael’s Pimp My Brush collection of makeup brush handles is by makeup artist (and former fine arts student) Dany Sanz, creator of the world-famous Make Up For Ever brand, and was designed to create “unmissable, unconventional, emotional and unique objects.” Raphael also provides brushes for skincare—as well as artist brushes. Sanz painted every cosmetic brush in the 9-brush collection.

Samhwa
Samhwa presented a variety of skincare and color cosmetic products including airless bottles, compacts and mascaras. An unusual multi-mascara holds two formulations in one tube: a mascara and another liquid that re-hydrates the mascara. A compact is made in PET (because ABS will be prohibited as of 2025), so it’s recyclable. The pan snaps out to be refillable.

Taesung
Taesung displayed lots of new items, and featured 100% PP mono-material products, including a 2cc lotion pump and refillable airless bottles. Rocky Yoon, sales manager, Taesung, said 100% PP mono-material packaging is “the most advanced solution for sustainability.” He added that their recyclable packaging is made of PP to get “a high level of recycling.” Also featured: a PP mono dropper and 2CC pump had passed the leakage test. Biodegradable plastic compacts and jars are also available. All can be decorated in numerous ways.

Technature
At Technature, one standout product was a powder-to-cream tinted formulation base for makeup. Active ingredients can be added, as desired. Apothecary-like dispensers, sourced by the supplier, hold the product. Press on the top—and the dry formula comes out at the bottom. Also of interest: Freeze-dried, solid makeup remover beads—only two beads are needed to remove your makeup.

World Sponge Manufacturing
At World Sponge Manufacturing, a cosmetic pencil allows for one-handed application by pressing on the back. The pencil can be re-used by removing the applicator part and replacing it with a screw-on brush, sponge pad or blending brush. 

MakeUp in Paris IT Winners

This year’s IT Awards showcased a record-breaking participation of exhibitors with over 117 entries submitted. Winners included Texen’s Multi Intensity Brush in the Accessories category, MS Beautylab’s Supernova Green powder in the Formulation category, Trendcolor’s coCOOLmelon blush in the Full-Service category, and Libo Cosmetics Co., Ltd’s Venus rechargeable lipstick in the Packaging category. See all the winners here.