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From recyclability requirements to rising compliance costs, Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) is forcing brands to rethink materials, design, and waste.
May 21, 2026
By: Joanna Cosgrove
Contributing Editor
Editor’s Take: EPR will not eliminate complex beauty packaging, but it will expose which formats are economically sustainable at scale. The winners will not be the brands with the most innovative packaging, but those whose packaging can survive both regulatory scrutiny and real-world recycling systems.
Packaging design isn’t just a finishing touch in the beauty industry, it’s a defining element of brand identity, consumer trust, and product experience. From the weight of a glass bottle to the tactile feel of a refillable compact, packaging communicates quality, values, and intent before a product is ever used. Alongside the pressures of beauty consumers that increasingly prioritize environmentally responsible choices, demanding recyclable, reusable, and low-impact materials, the global expansion of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) policies is reshaping how brands and packaging decision-makers approach design, materials, and end-of-life outcomes. Together, these forces are pushing the industry beyond aesthetics, making packaging a critical intersection of sustainability, compliance, and competitive differentiation.
Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), according to the Environmental Protection Agency, is a regulatory framework. It requires manufacturers, brand owners, and importers to take responsibility for the end-of-life management of their products and packaging. It includes collection, recycling, and disposal.
At its core, EPR is an environmental policy approach in which producers (manufacturers, importers, or brand owners) are made responsible for the entire lifecycle of their products, including what happens once consumers are done using them. The rationale behind EPRs is to foster higher recycling rates, introduce more eco-friendly product designs, and reduce landfill waste.
Under EPRs, the responsibility for dealing with waste shifts from taxpayers and local municipalities to the companies that create the products. This means that companies can be required to fund or manage collection and recycling services, design products that are easier to reuse or recycle, reduce the use of harmful materials, and meet targets for waste reduction or recycling rates.
For the cosmetic and personal care industry, EPRs currently apply to plastic, paper, and glass packaging. EPR policies also extend to electronics, batteries, tires, paint, and chemicals.
Pamela Gill-Alabaster, Former CSO and Adjunct Professor at Columbia University, says EPRs present unique challenges to the beauty industry because the policies tend to reward simpler, more recyclable, more standardized packaging formats.
“In beauty, however, packs are often small-format, multi-material, and highly componentized: pumps, caps, actuators, overcaps, mirrors, magnets, metallized finishes, sleeves, labels, decoration, tinted resins, and secondary packaging,” she says. “These features support aesthetics, dosing, protection, and shelf impact, but they can reduce recyclability or increase cost under an EPR fee structure that penalizes hard-to-recycle formats. Beauty’s small pack sizes are a particular challenge because even when the base resin is technically recyclable, the format may still be too small to be effectively sorted in the real system.”
Read More: Why Pamela Gill-Alabaster Thinks ‘Made in NA Packaging’ Is on a Growth Path
Policies meant to improve waste and circularity were pioneered by progressive European and global practices in the 1990s. In the US, there is currently no national EPR law. Since the early 2000s, however, a handful of states have adopted broad, yet fragmented policies that fit within an EPR framework.
In Europe, EPR frameworks are standardized under directives like the EU Packaging and Packaging Waste Directive. But in the U.S., the system is fragmented at the state level. This is creating operational complexity for national brands.
Currently, seven US states—California, Colorado, Maine, Maryland, Minnesota, Oregon, and Washington—have comprehensive packaging EPR laws. These laws are in various stages of implementation, with many programs set to fully roll out between 2026–2027. Five states introduced EPR bills in 2005-2026, including New Jersey, New York, Illinois, North Carolina, and New Hampshire. Wisconsin is actively considering EPR, but it’s still in the proposal phase. Plus, ten additional states have also conducted formal studies or policy development efforts in 2025.
Producers who fail to comply with EPR laws are subject to penalty fees.
Programs are typically run in partnership with a Producer Responsibility Organization (PRO). PROs help companies navigate and comply with EPR packaging laws. These companies act as conduits for compliance by registering producers, collecting data, managing fees, and funding recycling infrastructure.
Other states continue to study or debate similar measures. For example, Gill-Alabaster notes that Hawaii enacted a packaging EPR-related study bill in 2025. Tennessee also considered, but did not pass, a packaging EPR bill in March 2026.
EPR bears some similarities to Eco-Contribution/Green Tax or Environmental Compliance/Green Tax (ECGT), but with unique differences. Both aim to reduce environmental impacts, but they work differently in structure, responsibility, and business impact.
In a nutshell, EPR forces companies to own the environmental impact of their packaging and products. This leads to deeper operational and design changes. ECGT makes companies pay for environmental impact, but doesn’t require them to directly manage it.
A primary point of difference between EPRs and ECGT systems is that ECGTs are financial mechanisms. Companies pay taxes or fees based on their product’s environmental impacts. This makes the focus more on economic disincentives rather than operational responsibility. ECGTs also defer waste management to the government or environmental programs.
Under EPR, there’s stronger incentives for packaging redesign that utilizes recyclable and/or lighter weight materials for overall improved recyclability.
EPR’s multi-stage responsibility during the lifecycle of a package also means a higher degree of operational complexity for producers. Compliance can get especially tough for producers in multiple states, since EPR requires detailed reporting and coordination with PROs and recyclers.
In short, EPR is driving a transformation in supply chains, as it works to reinforce packaging innovations that support a more circular economy.
Read More: How Innovation is Accelerating Sustainable Cosmetic Packaging
EPR is shifting procurement criteria beyond cost and aesthetics toward:
For OEMs and contract manufacturers, this creates a competitive advantage for suppliers that can provide validated recyclability data, lifecycle assessments, and compliance-ready documentation.
In the beauty industry, portfolio complexity can present formidable challenges from a data management and reporting standpoint. “Many beauty companies manage hundreds or thousands of SKUs across categories with different packaging profiles, supplier bases, and regional requirements,” Gill-Alabaster says. “That means EPR is not just a packaging-design issue; it becomes a data, governance, and compliance issue.”
Given the similar but not quite identical EPR requirements from state to state, she advises that companies find ways to gain better visibility into material composition, component weights, recyclability by market, and who the legal producer is in each state.
“For beauty, the operational burden can be significant because the packaging bill of materials is often more complex than in other CPG sectors,” she says.
Some examples of real-world packaging implications can stem from configurations like pumps that combine plastic and metal, which are often classified as non-recyclable and can cause some brands to pay higher EPR fees for these formats. Another example would be a fragrance bottle with a metallized coating and a glass or plastic cap. Each component would likely need to be reported and charged separately.
More simplified packaging, such as moving from multi-material pumps and tubes to mono-material alternatives, and eliminating metal springs, magnets in compacts, and mirror inserts, can reduce EPR fees.
In short, beauty companies are increasingly moving to recyclable, easier to disassemble, and mono-material packaging (e.g., clear PET instead of colored/mixed plastics), reducing multi-layer, hard-to-recycle formats (common in cosmetics like pumps, compacts; increasing use of refillable and reusable systems; and eliminating potentially problematic materials (e.g., certain plastics, PFAS). Because EPR laws use eco-modulation fees, brands will pay more for non-recyclable packaging and less for sustainable formats.
Some beauty brands are adapting and preparing for EPR by exploring more EPR-friendly materials/designs and building internal systems for improved tracking. They’re also joining PROs. For example, Circular Action Alliance has been approved as the PRO in multiple packaging EPR states, including California, Colorado, Maryland, Minnesota, Oregon, and, as of March 2026, Washington.
“More advanced companies are treating EPR as both a compliance requirement and a design signal,” Gill-Alabaster says. “They are reviewing portfolios to identify where they can simplify structures, reduce unnecessary material complexity, shift toward more recyclable mono-material formats where feasible, reduce decoration that interferes with sortability, and rethink secondary packaging. We are seeing more interest in packaging designed for recyclability, refill, material reduction, and formats that align better with existing collection and sorting systems.”
At the same time, brands are building internal infrastructure, including SKU-level packaging data, clearer ownership between packaging, procurement, sustainability, regulatory, legal, finance, and commercial teams, and governance to support reporting and fee estimation.
“EPR is forcing companies to get more disciplined about packaging data quality,” she comments. “For many brands, that is a new muscle.”
While EPR is accelerating progress toward circularity, its real-world implementation exposes structural constraints that are particularly acute in the beauty sector.
EPR frameworks assume that improving packaging design will translate into higher recycling rates. In practice, U.S. recycling infrastructure remains uneven. Many material recovery facilities are not equipped to capture small-format items such as sample sachets, mini tubes, or caps under 2 inches. Even packaging that meets recyclability guidelines on paper may still be lost in the system due to sorting limitations, contamination, or regional variability in accepted materials.
Fee structures are designed to reward recyclability, but they often fail to account for the functional requirements of beauty packaging. Airless pumps, multi-layer tubes, and protective barriers serve critical roles in product stability, dosing precision, and shelf life. Simplifying these formats to reduce fees can introduce trade-offs in performance, compatibility, or product safety. In some cases, the “most recyclable” option is not the most viable from a formulation or user-experience standpoint.
EPR compliance depends on detailed packaging data, yet there is no universal standard for how materials, formats, or recyclability are defined across states or PROs. Suppliers may classify materials differently, recyclability labels can vary by jurisdiction, and internal systems are often not designed to track packaging at the component level. The result is a growing need for data reconciliation, audits, and manual intervention, particularly for brands operating across multiple markets.
Although demand for mono-material and recyclable packaging is rising, supply chains have not fully caught up. High-performance alternatives such as recyclable pumps, PCR-compatible resins, or refillable systems are still constrained by cost, availability, and manufacturing compatibility. This creates a bottleneck where brands are incentivized to redesign, but viable substitutes are not always commercially scalable across large product portfolios.
EPR introduces a variable cost layer tied to packaging decisions, but fee schedules are still evolving. Producers are making design and sourcing decisions without full visibility into how eco-modulation criteria will change over time. This uncertainty complicates long-term planning, particularly for global brands balancing U.S. EPR requirements with EU or other international frameworks.
EPR shifts responsibility upstream, but recycling outcomes still depend on consumer participation. Confusion around what is recyclable, inconsistent labeling, and low engagement with proper disposal practices continue to undermine system efficiency. Without parallel investment in consumer education and standardized labeling, even well-designed packaging may fail to achieve intended recovery rates.
EPR shifts packaging costs from municipalities to brands, tying fees directly to design. Under frameworks like California’s SB 54, producers must fund recycling systems, with lower fees for recyclable formats and higher costs for complex, multi-material packaging — common practice across beauty.
The impact is straightforward: packaging decisions now carry financial consequences. Beyond fees, brands face new costs tied to data tracking, reporting, and supplier coordination. This turns packaging into a regulated input rather than a purely creative one.
EPR is unlikely to remain a regional compliance issue. As more states adopt similar frameworks, beauty brands face a choice: redesign packaging systems now or absorb escalating compliance costs and operational complexity later. Given the upheaval that EPR poses for business-as-usual practices, it’s had its fair share of pushback. Among the concerns are patchwork regulation problems, cost uncertainties, inconsistent definitions across states, data burdens, and how quickly brands are expected to operationalize new systems.
That said, Gill-Alabaster does not believe most established beauty brands will view absorbing penalties as a credible long-term strategy. “For companies with meaningful market presence, deliberately absorbing noncompliance risk could be shortsighted,” she warns. “The issue is not only penalties; it is also retailer expectations, reputational exposure, investor scrutiny, and the increasing likelihood that EPR obligations will expand across more jurisdictions. Beauty is too visible a category to take a casual approach to packaging responsibility.”
Outright resistance will likely give way to selective delay: companies moving more slowly than regulators, trying to preserve design freedom while minimizing cost and disruption.
Like it or not, Gill-Alabaster believes EPR is becoming a foundational path forward, noting that it has the capacity to drive funding for collection and recycling infrastructure and create incentives for better packaging design. However, she says, it will not solve the packaging problem by itself.
“Better outcomes will require EPR plus design-for-recyclability, source reduction, reuse/refill where it makes sense, better consumer guidance, and stronger end-market demand for recycled materials,” she comments, adding that policies like California’s SB 54 are “a good example of where policy is headed: it does not just assign responsibility, it also sets performance expectations around recyclability, source reduction, and recycling outcomes.”
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