Chanel

brand-profile-thumb

Company Headquarters

5 Barlow Place, London, , W1J 6DG, United Kingdom

Driving Directions

Key Personnel

NAME
JOB TITLE
  • Leena Nair
    Global Chief Executive Officer
  • Alain Wertheimer
    Global Executive Chairman
  • Gérard Wertheimer
    Global Executive Chairman
  • Matthieu Blazy
    Artistic Director
  • Larissa Zavala
    Human Resources and Training Vice President
  • Marianna Nitsch
    Chief Legal Officer
  • Aude Appolinaire
    SVP Sales
  • Marie-Héloïse BARDEL
    Head of Neurosciences Department

Yearly results

Sales: 7 Billion

Corporate Sales: $19.7 billion
Beauty Sales: $7 billion (est.)

Major Products:
Fragrances, Skincare, and Color Cosmetics from brands including:

  • Chanel No. 5
  • Allure
  • Coco
  • Chance
  • Antaeus
  • Les Exclusifs
  • Bleu de Chanel
  • Sublimage
  • Hydramax + Active
  • White Essentiel
  • Le Blanc
  • Hydra-Beauty
  • Rouge Allure
  • Rouge Coco
  • Vitalumiére
  • Joues Contrastes

New Products:

  • 31 Le Rouge Lipstick
  • Hydra Beauty Micro Serum Levres
  • Ombre Essentielle Collection
  • No. 5 L’Eau fragrance
  • Le Rouge Duo Ultra Tenue
  • Chance Eau Fraîche Eau de Toilette Twist and Spray
  • La Mousse
  • Baume Essentiel Multi-Use Glow Sticks
  • Noir Allure Mascara
  • Ombre Essentielle Multi-Use Top Coat
  • No. 1 De Chanel Revitalizing foundation and Eye Serum

Comments: Privately-held Chanel issues limited financial results, especially per category, but corporate sales at the prestigious atelier rose 16% to $19.7 billion in 2023. Chanel recorded double-digit growth across all categories (fashion, cosmetics & fragrances, and jewelry & watches).

According to the luxe retailer, Fragrance & Beauty achieved “very strong growth” across all categories—particularly makeup—”driven by the ongoing return of travel retail and sustained growth from local clientele.” The year included the launch of 31 Le Rouge, the first lipstick presented in a glass case—and refillable—which was a statement of the prestige brand’s commitment to sustainability. Skincare sales rose mostly due to Sublimage, which also launched a line with refillable packaging, and increased popularity in the Asian market. In fragrance, the primary contributors to growth were the Chance Masterbrand and Coco Mademoiselle. N°5 was in line with the previous year.

Online sales were roughly flat year-on-year, with sales gains on its own platforms counterbalanced by a slowdown for retailer e-commerce.

Chanel expanded its presence in India, opening its third fragrance and beauty boutique in the country.

Commenting on the year, Leena Nair, Chanel’s Global Chief Executive Officer, said, “The strong results we are announcing today reflect Chanel’s relentless focus on exceptional creations that inspire. They underline sustained investment in building the desirability of our brand, creating the ultimate luxury experience for our clients, and supporting our people to grow and develop.”

In 2023, Chanel increased global personnel by 14% to more than 36,500 people, expanded its retail distribution network to over 600 boutiques worldwide, and invested significantly in R&D and technology. Chanel also launched its Open Innovation Function to partner with startups, thought leaders, and academic institutions.”

Nair also said that Chanel “continues to contribute positively to the environment and the communities in which we operate. Our House Sustainability Ambition outlines our focus on restoring nature and climate, investing in circularity, supporting those in our supply chain, and promoting the autonomy of women. We are proud of our new Net-Zero 2040 targets validated by the SBTi, which will underpin the continued transformation of our business.”
Philippe Blondiaux, Chanel’s Global Chief Financial Officer, said, “Chanel delivered another strong financial performance in 2023, with double-digit growth across all categories. Sales increased in each of our markets as retail teams continued to nourish relationships with our local clients, while also embracing the continued return of tourist travel around the world.

“After three years of exceptional growth for our industry, we are now entering a more challenging environment. Against that backdrop, and following a record level of investment last year, Chanel will continue to increase investment in the year ahead, whether in our brand, our craftsmanship and savoir-faire, in the continued elevation of our client experience, in real estate, or in our boutique and distribution network. We are confident that the consistency of our long-term approach and the unique strength and appeal of the Chanel brand leave us well positioned for the future.”

2023-2024 Highlights:

At the beginning of the year, Canadian actress Whitney Peak was announced as the new Coco Mademoiselle, “marking a new dawn for the fragrance.” Timothée Chalamet was named as the new face of Bleu de Chanel.

Chanel says it continues to advance its sustainability ambitions, focusing on four key areas: restoring nature & climate, investing in circularity, advancing dignity & opportunity for all those across its business & supply chain, and promoting women’s autonomy.

In January 2024, Chanel expanded its presence in India, opening its third fragrance and beauty boutique, this one at Mumbai’s Phoenix Palladium Mall.

Amid these successes, have come executive changes.

In January 2024, Christine Dagousset, Chanel’s global open innovation officer and previously global president of fragrance & beauty, left the company.

In July 2024, Chanel’s President of Fragrance & Beauty, Anne Kirby, announced she would be retiring from the luxury house after five years of leading its Fragrance & Beauty division. Kirby has been credited with strengthening the luxury brand’s Fragrance & Beauty division.

Kirby’s sudden announcement followed the recent departure of Chanel’s Artistic Director Virginie Viard and the appointment of Fabrice Raoul as MD of Chanel SAS.

In September, Chanel named Simona Cattaneo as its new President of Fragrance and Beauty. To replace Kirby. Cattaneo was formerly at Tod’s group, and also served at Coty for 5 years as President of Luxury Brands and Chief Marketing Officer.

Reports are that in the third quarter of last year, the luxury sector started to see growth slow in key European and U.S. markets, while China offered disappointing sales.

Chanel saw its total sales in the Asia-Pacific region climb by 17.7% to more than $10 billion. The rise was even higher in Europe, at 18.8%, to $5.6 billion. But the growth was a reported slower 2.6% to $3.9 billion in the Americas.

Chanel opened more than 20 beauty boutiques in 2023, mainly in Asia and the U.S., including in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. It also expanded stateside with Ulta Beauty the retailer upped its offerings in the luxury beauty space.

Sales: 6.5 Billion

Corporate Sales: $17.2 billion
Beauty Sales: $6.5 billion (estimate)

Major Products: Fragrances: Chanel No. 5, Allure, Allure Homme, Coco, Coco Mademoiselle, Chance, No.19, Cristalle, Egoïste, Les Exclusifs, Bleu de Chanel. Skincare: Sublimage, Ultra Correction Lift and Line Repair, White Essentiel, Le Blanc. Color Cosmetics: Rouge Allure, Rouge Coco, Le Vernis, Inimitable, Les 4 Ombres, Vitalumière.

New Products: Chanel Chance Eau Fraîche EDP, No. 1 de Chanel fragrance, Les 4 Ombres Byzance palettes (limited edition), Les Pinceaux de Chanel (brush collection), Camelia Hydrating and Fortifying Oil, Rouge Coco Baume hydrating, tinted lip color.

Financial Summary:

Luxury is unquestionably still in style at Chanel, the world’s No. 2 high-end goods maker (behind LVMH), where corporate sales rose 17% in 2022 to a record $17.2 billion. Still, like the case with many of our Top 20, it was price increases that contributed heavily to the bottom line; in fact, half of Chanel’s revenue growth was attributed to price increases.

The company posted double-digit gains across all categories. By region, sales in Asia Pacific rose 14.3% to $8.65 billion. Revenues climbed 29.6% in Europe to $4.72 billion and 9.5% in the Americas to $3.86 billion. This was reportedly the highest revenue total since the prestige company started reporting its financials in 2018.

On releasing the annual figures, Chanel global CEO Leena Nair, said, “The strong performance we are announcing today reflects the strength of our brand, our client relationships, and the freedom of creation that defines everything we do. Since joining Chanel in January 2022 and engaging with our teams across the world, I have experienced the passion and creativity that is reflected in these results.” (Nair joined Chanel from Unilever, where she had held positions in human resources for 30 years.)

In 2022, Chanel’s Fragrance & Beauty category was rewarded with the onset of travel retail, as well as continued demand from local clientele. The beginning of the year saw the launch of N°1 De Chanel, “a new generation of beauty products,” driven by an eco-responsible approach with its use of eco-designed packaging and its formulas that contain up to 97% naturally derived ingredients. The research behind this line is supported by extensive research from Chanel’s Open-Sky laboratory in Gaujacq, France, which is based on the principles of agroecology and agroforestry, to preserve local biodiversity.

Other makeup products launched during the year included Rouge Allure L’Extrait and Les 4 Ombres Tweed which was inspired by Gabrielle Chanel’s tweed creations. Pop-ups and other immersive experiences were again prevalent in 2022, with a celebration of the heritage and craftsmanship behind the House’s iconic fragrances at Le Grand Numéro de Chanel exhibition in Paris at the end of the year. Chanel continued to reduce its own carbon footprint and says it is on track to reach its target of a 50% reduction by 2030.

2023 Highlights:

In February, Chanel signed actress Whitney Peak as the new face of its Coco Mademoiselle fragrance—making Peak the first Black face of the brand’s signature fragrance.

In March, The Personal Care Products Council appointed Barbara Menarguez, general manager of fragrance and beauty at Chanel, as its new board chair. Menarguez is a 25-year veteran of Chanel, and has also served as the company’s SVP and CFO.

In May, Chanel named actor Timothée Chalamet as the new ambassador of its Bleu De Chanel fragrance. A campaign film, directed by Martin Scorsese, will follow this Fall.

In July 2023, Chanel put increased emphasis on brick & mortar, opening a store in Williamsburg Brooklyn. The store features makeup, skincare and fragrance—but also includes eyewear and small-sized leather items. These freestanding stores are planned for other high-target areas in the U.S., as well as expansion in Ulta stores, in the hopes that customers will become loyal to the brand’s luxe goods and service and gain interest in other brand categories. At press time, to celebrate the launch of Chanel Chance Eau

Fraîche EDP, the “world’s largest prestige brand” opened a pop-up “diner” in Williamsburg, where guests could sit in booths or at a counter to sample select fragrances.

Looking Ahead:

Chanel is expanding its London-based global headquarters, and expects to complete the move by the end of 2025. The French luxury house moved its global headquarters to London from New York City in 2018. They expect to add about 5,000 more employees worldwide this year, totaling over 32,000 people worldwide.

CEO Leena Nair, commented: “As we look forward, our priorities are clear, focused on our belief in the transformative role of creation, our desire to have a positive impact in the world, and to always stay ahead of the curve. As Gabrielle Chanel said: “être de ce qui va arriver”—’to be part of what happens next.’

Sales: 3.4 Billion

Corporate Sales: $15.6 billion
Beauty Sales: $3.4 billion (est.)

Major Products:

  • Fragrances: Chanel No. 5, Allure, Allure Homme, Coco, Coco Mademoiselle, Chance, No.19, Cristalle, Pour Monsieur, Antaeus, Egoïste, Les Exclusifs, Bleu de Chanel.
  • Skincare: Sublimage, Ultra Correction Lift and Line Repair, Hydramax + Active, White Essentiel, Le Blanc, Hydra-Beauty.
  • Color Cosmetics: Rouge Allure, Rouge Coco, Le Vernis, Inimitable, Inimitable Intense, Les 4 Ombres, Vitalumière, Joues Contrastes.

New Products:

  • Fragrance: Paris—Paris by Chanel, Chanel Factory 5, Blue de Chanel, Les Eaux de Chanel
  • Makeup: Les 4 Ombres Tweed palette, N°1 de Chanel Lip and Cheek Balm, Perles et Éclats de Chanel makeup collection
  • Skincare: Sublimage L’Extrait de Nuit, Sublimage L’Essence de Teint, Massage Oil Collection.

Financial Summary:

Luxury sales blossomed at Chanel with 2021 financial results driven by strong demand across all product lines. Sales reached $15.6 billion, up 49.6% versus 2020 and 22.9% versus 2019 on a comparable basis at constant currency. In fact, Chanel sales reached record highs in 2021 across all product categories despite the Covid pandemic impacting Retail and Travel retail businesses, particularly in the first part of the year. Operating profit showed an increase of 170.6% compared to 2020 and 57.5% compared to 2019. The company said a strong performance in the rest of the world made up for the closure of stores in Russia and China.

Philippe Blondiaux, global chief financial officer, commented: “This very strong financial performance reflects the strength and uniqueness of the Chanel brand focused on creation and sustained commitment to enhance our savoir-faire, while transforming our business model to have a positive impact and achieve our sustainability ambitions. The passion and engagement of our teams around the world is a key pillar of this success.

“Despite the challenging backdrop in 2021, our results highlighted remarkable customer demand particularly from our local client base, driven by the dedication and creativity of our teams to bring our clients’ dreams to life through unique experiences.”

Blondiaux went on to say: “2022 will be another year of significant investment to support the long-term health of the Chanel brand and to deliver our sustainability ambition, whether in our people, continued focus on quality, customer experience, our boutiques, or in our supply chain transformation.”

Fragrance & Beauty made a strong comeback based on market share gains in key countries, and demand (both in boutiques and online) from local clientele as travel retail remained impacted by restrictions. 2021 was also a milestone year for Fragrance with Chanel celebrating the 100th anniversary of its iconic Chanel N°5. This was led by innovative pop-ups in key markets and also through the launch of the Chanel Factory 5 collection—16 limited-edition products inspired by everyday objects in an ultra-modern design, bringing the history of the world’s most famous fragrance into the future. The success of Bleu and Coco Mademoiselle also boosted Fragrance sales while Skincare contributed to the growth of the Beauty segment.

Chanel has also continued to grow its Fragrance and Beauty standalone network, particularly in Asia, to further personalize the customer experience.

Blondiaux conceded that “the performance of the fragrance and beauty division, which accounts for a larger than average proportion of revenues at Chanel, was more muted as travel retail remained impacted by restrictions.”

2021-2022 Highlights:

In September 2021, following two-years of development, Chanel launched a sustainable cap for perfume bottles</a>; the cap is made with Finland’s Sulapac manufactured material. The cap reportedly took two years and 47 previous prototypes before it was finalized, with the new biodegradable cap being made of 91% plant-based materials. The cap was used for all 125 milliliter bottles of the Les Eaux de Chanel collection of fragrances.

In December, the French luxury group named ex-Unilever executive Leena Nair as its new global chief executive, based in London.

In January 2022, Chanel revealed its Nº1 De Chanel 6-product collection, developed with three beauty categories in mind. Inspired by the scent of the red camellia flower, the collection comprises skincare, fragrance and make-up SKUs, all sustainably packaged.

The full range’s packaging has been housed in lighter jars and bottles to reduce weight, while plastic was greatly reduced, including the use of cellophane. Paper leaflets have been removed and product lids use recycled or bio-sourced materials. The brand also removed the use of inks on lids, and used engraving, instead. Organic inks, which consume less energy, were used on pack.

Looking Ahead

Blondiaux said the luxury house expects “healthy” growth in 2022, after a record 2021.

Sales: 3.4 Billion

Corporate Sales: $10 billion

Beauty Sales: $3.4 billion (est.)

Major Products: Fragrances, Skin Care and Color Cosmetics including Fragrances: Chanel No. 5, Allure, Allure Homme, Coco, Coco Mademoiselle, Chance, No.19, Bleu de Chanel. Skin Care: Sublimage, Ultra Correction Lift and Line Repair, Hydramax + Active, White Essentiel. Color Cosmetics: Rouge Allure, Rouge Coco, Le Vernis, Inimitable, Vitalumière, Joues Contrastes

New Products: Chanel Factory 5, Blue de Chanel, Les Eau de Chanel, Rouge Coco Bloom lipcolor, Le Bain de Chance Scented Bath Tablets, Perles et Éclats de Chanel makeup collection, Le Lift, Sublimage, L’Extrait de Nuit, Sublimage L’Essence de Teint, Hydra Beauty, Massage Oil Collection

Comments: With most of the world hunkered down in 2020 and duty-free airport shopping roped off, luxury sales, including fragrances and cosmetics suffered, and impacted Chanel across the board. Corporate sales fell 18% in 2020, to $10 billion, led by a 36% drop in Europe. When international travel started to resume in the last quarter, the French luxury goods manufacturer saw an uptick in sales.

Fragrance & Beauty focused on providing a seamless experience for customers, with strong growth in online sales partially offsetting the impact from the decline of travel retail. Skincare had a notably strong performance within the Beauty segment, supported by Le Lift and Sublimage. Meanwhile in Fragrance, Coco Mademoiselle and Bleu continued their success, while No5 has been preparing to celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2021, with Marion Cotillard as its new muse.

Despite the dip in sales, the brand focused on resiliency and long-term goals, including sustainability—and investment, with reports of as much as $1 billion. Philippe Blondiaux, Chanel’s global chief financial officer, said, “The strength of the Chanel brand was clearly demonstrated in 2020 as the business delivered a resilient financial performance in what was a very challenging period for our employees, our partners and for the business itself.”

“Chanel’s focus on creativity and innovation, unique savoir-faire and the agility of our teams and our organisation, helped to limit the impact of the crisis. At the same time, Chanel has continued to prioritise investment to support the long-term health of the brand, with record levels of capital expenditure through the year.

“In keeping with our long-term approach and commitment to sustainable business, we also launched our strategy to tackle climate change through Chanel Mission 1.5°. The business has made early progress against the science-based targets we have set, as we look to accelerate the move to a lower carbon economy and help protect the world’s most vulnerable communities and ecosystems from the impacts of climate change.”

2021 Highlights

With sustainability paramount, at the start of the year, Chanel named Kate Wylie as global chief sustainability officer and president of Fondation Chanel.

In February, Chanel launched its first AI try-on beauty app for color, Lipscanner, which can scan colors from print and online sources, and match them with more than 400 of the brand’s lip products. Lip color can also be matched to clothing.

Chanel launched a new line of body care products, as an extension of the Chance fragrance line.

The Chance Body Cleanser and Moisturiser are housed in the brand’s ‘twist and slide’ cap, a Chanel exclusive mechanism that is said to deliver the ideal amount of product.

Chanel launched a new e-commerce platform for its beauty and fragrance shoppers in Singapore. Products are packaged and mailed in the luxury brand’s iconic packaging.

Chanel’s Factory 5 launched 17 limited-edition products that were created to present the No5 fragrance in new ways as the brand celebrates its 100th birthday of the perfume, according to Harper’s Bazaar. Clever packaging for body care products includes a paint can, which holds a scented shower gel and an oil tin that contains body oil.

To guarantee availability, the luxe brand recently purchased an additional large plot of land in the South of France where the jasmine used in its iconic Chanel No.5 fragrance is grown.

Looking Ahead

For first-half 2021, Chanel reported further rebounding sales and a double-digit growth in revenues, saying its full year operating profit margin is expected to return to 2019 levels. Looking ahead, the luxury brand plans to expand its network of standalone beauty and fragrance boutiques.

Sales: 4.1 Billion

Corporate Sales: $12.3 billion
Beauty Sales: $4.1 billion (est.)

Major Products:

  • Chanel No. 5, Allure, Allure Homme
  • Coco Mademoiselle, Chance, No.19
  • Cristalle, Les Exclusifs, Bleu de Chanel
  • Sublimage, Ultra Correction Lift and Line Repair
  • Hydramax + Active, Rouge Allure, Le Vernis

New Products:

  • Chanel Les 4 Ombres, Rouge Coco Flash, Poudre Universelle Libre
  • Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privé, Bleu de Chanel Parfum Twist and Spray
  • Coco Mademoiselle Fresh Hair Mist, Le Gommage Anti-Pollution Exfoliating Gel
  • Chance Eau Tendre Eau de Parfum, Stylo Yeux Waterproof eyeliner

Comments: Chanel reported strong 2019 results across all regions and product categories despite some challenging conditions within the year, including Hong Kong demonstrations and strikes in France—unaware of how the market would be stressed even further with the arrival of Covid-19. The luxury brand reported corporate sales of $12.3 billion for the year.

Overall sales were strongest in Asia-Pacific, followed by Europe, then the Americas.

The privately-owned Chanel continued to enhance customer experience in Fragrance and Beauty through the development of its own retail network. The brand operated 144 Fragrance & Beauty boutiques around the world as of the end of 2019, which, combined with its e-commerce platform on chanel.com, reinforces its omnichannel approach.

In 2019, Chanel’s Fragrance and Beauty category continued to deliver strong growth across all product categories and channels. In Fragrance, Chanel reinforced its leadership, supported by the launch of Chance Eau Tendre Eau de Parfum, the new Gabrielle Essence, which made it a new pillar of the House’s fragrances, along with the continued success of Bleu de Chanel. In Beauty, Chanel says it continued to gain market share in makeup, boosted by Rouge Coco Flash and Ultra le Teint. Sublimage, along with Le Lift, led the growth of the skin care category.

One of its strategic priorities for 2019 was to strengthen the company’s policy on climate change. Chanel made four commitments: to reduce its carbon footprint across its own operations and its entire supply chain to meet science-based targets; shift to 100% renewable electricity on a worldwide basis by 2025; balance its residual carbon emissions; and finance climate change adaptation. The company’s 2030 carbon emissions targets were approved by the science-based targets initiative. Chanel reached carbon neutrality in 2019. In doing so, Chanel continues to intensify its commitment to responsible and sustainable business practices in both its business and supply chain and has accelerated its transformation for a more sustainable future.

Late in the year, Chanel released a video and ad campaign for the Holiday season, with a snow-globe-Christmas theme. It starred Lily-Rose Depp,  the new face of the brand, sitting atop a giant Chanel No. 5 L’Eau bottle.

2020 Highlights

In February, Marion Cotillard was named brand ambassador for Chanel No.5. Chanel said of Cotillard, “The perfect incarnation of French natural beauty, Marion Cotillard has an irresistible ‘je ne sais quoi’ that’s all her own. She is bringing her elegance to the image of the iconic N°5 fragrance.”

In May, Chanel launched an online beauty pop-up store in Hong Kong, just prior to Mother’s Day, as a retail experience alternative to department stores shuttered by Covid-19—featuring makeup, skin care and fragrance.

With so much momentum moving toward e-commerce sales,  Chanel has made a move toward going digital, selling its perfume and cosmetics via Korea’s Kakao Talk app, said to be used by over 90% of smartphone owners in Korea.

Looking Ahead

Chanel has forecast a “significant” impact on its business this year after the pandemic forced it to temporarily close its boutiques, manufacturing activities and distribution centers worldwide. While sales in China are reportedly bouncing back, the prestige brand can only hope that global travel resumes shortly.

Just last month, Chanel appointed Agathe Derain, who previously served as responsible sourcing director in the luxury design house’s fragrance and beauty division, to the newly created position of head of human rights, corporate sustainability. Derain will follow Chanel’s goals to comply with the 2015 Paris Climate Agreement, under which Chanel reportedly plans to spend $25 million over the next five years.

A new Chanel Beauty product range has been released for the Fall/Winter 2020 season. Called the “Red” collection, the range consists of lipsticks, blushes, eyeshadows and nail polishes.

Sales: 3.7 Billion

Corporate Sales: $11.1 billion

Beauty Sales: $3.7 billion (est.)

Major Products/Brands:
Fragrance, Skincare and Color Cosmetics, including:

  • Chanel No. 5, Allure, Allure Homme
  • Coco Mademoiselle, Chance, No.19
  • Cristalle, Pour Monsieur, Antaeus
  • Les Exclusifs, Bleu de Chanel, Sublimage
  • Ultra Correction Lift and Line Repair, Hydramax + Active
  • Rouge Allure, Le Vernis, Inimitable, Joues Contrastes

New Products:

  • Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense
  • Bleu de Chanel Le Parfum
  • Boy de Chanel makeup
  • Le mascara Volume Revolution
  • La Crème Mains Riche
  • Ultra Le Teint Velvet
  • Rouge Coco Gloss

Comments: For Chanel’s second-ever annual report in its 110-year history, the iconic French company reported $11.1 billion in total sales in 2018, up 10.5% from the previous year, while net profits climbed 16.4% to $2.17 billion. Growth in Fragrance and Cosmetics was estimated at about a third of the total. The reported across-the-board growth was largely driven by strong growth in the Asia-Pacific region, with a 19.9% rise in annual sales, compared to a 7.7% rise in Europe and 7.4% in The Americas. Perhaps this success was the source of a rumor in June 2019 that rival LVMH was looking to purchase Chanel, which it estimated to be a 100-billion-euro brand. LVMH’s interest supposedly grew out of the February death of Chanel’s longtime creative director Karl Lagerfeld, who passed away at age 85.

Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense and Bleu de Chanel Le Parfum, as well as its first makeup line for men, Boy de Chanel, launched in South Korea last September, all contributed to growth in the company’s Fragrance and Beauty division. Le mascara Volume Revolution was called “a breakthrough 3D technology in makeup.”

As with most companies on our Top 20 list, sustainability is becoming more of a priority for consumer engagement. In this regard, late in 2018, Chanel invested in Sulapac, a startup company in Finland, that makes sustainable packaging products based on a biodegradable, microplastic-free trademarked material made from FSC-certified wood chips and natural binders. The material can be mass-produced with the same equipment as plastic.

In December, Chanel reformulated their Le Lift skincare range. Introduced in three new textures; the jars also made a splash with a new rosy beige tone rather than the previous solid black.

At the end of 2018, Chanel employed more than 25,000 people worldwide—double the number from 2008.

News of Note in 2019

Packaging news continued for the global retailer in 2019 when Chanel launched a limited edition of Chanel No°5 Eau De Parfum “dressed” in red, reportedly one of Gabrielle Chanel’s favorite colors. The bottle was created by Verescence, said to have the “exclusive expertise in producing red glass,” and exclusively made by them for more than 30 years. The striking flacon was awarded a 2019 Fragrance Foundation award for Best Packaging-Women’s. The iconic brand also received an award for Fragrance of the Year, Men’s Luxury, for Chanel Bleu De Chanel Parfum; as well as Media Campaign of the Year, Men’s—Chanel Blue De Chanel Parfum.

In March, Chanel expanded its Boy de Chanel male makeup range to Hong Kong.

With growth in the Asia/Pacific region pretty much assured, in August, Chanel opened a flagship store for its fragrance and beauty lines on Tmall and Tmall Luxury Pavilion, Alibaba Group’s dedicated platform for luxury and premium brands.

Also, this past summer, the luxury brand announced that actress Margot Robbie would be the face of its new scent—Gabrielle Chanel Essence—scheduled for release this Fall.

Sales: 3.2 Billion

Corporate Sales: $9.6 billion

Beauty: $3.2 billion (est.) (FY 2017 Beauty Sales: $2.8 billion, est.)

Major Products/Brands:

  • Chanel No. 5, Allure, Allure Homme, Coco, Coco Mademoiselle
  • Chance, No.19, Cristalle, Pour Monsieur, Antaeus, Egoïste,
  • Les Exclusifs and Bleu de Chanel fragrances; Sublimage,
  • Ultra Correction Lift and Line Repair, Hydramax + Active, White Essentiel,
  • Le Blanc and Hydra-Beauty skin care; Rouge Allure, Rouge Coco, Le Vernis,
  • Inimitable, Inimitable Intense, Les 4 Ombres, Vitalumière and Joues Contrastes color cosmetics

New Products:

  • Gabrielle fragrance
  • Neon Wave cosmetics collection
  • Jumbo Longwear Lip Crayon
  • Le Rouge Crayon De Couleur Mat Subversion
  • Boy de Chanel makeup for Men
  • Le Volume Révolution de Chanel mascara

Chanel Reveals Sales Figures, Focuses on Sustainability

As a privately held company, notoriously tight-lipped Chanel isn’t required to make its annual earnings public. This year, for the first time in the luxury company’s 108 years, it did. In a June press release, the company released financial results for the year ending December 31, 2017: Corporate sales climbed 11.5% to $9.62 billion.

The company said gains occurred across all three of its regional locals. Asia Pacific revenues climbed 16.5% to $3.7 billion, Europe increased 10.2% to $3.9 billion, and The Americas region rose 5.3 to $1.9 billon. While the company did not disclose the breakdown of gains across its fashion, cosmetic and jewelry categories, the successful launch of the brand’s latest signature fragrance, Gabrielle, no doubt added to the bottom line.

Chanel also continued to upgrade the distribution network of retail boutiques for its signature products, including Fragrance and Beauty, by investing in existing and new stores. Among the company’s 2017 openings was the announcement that Chanel established a new, London-headquartered holding company, Chanel Limited, to help bring all its businesses and 20,000 employees under a single roof. The move also helps simplify a legal and organizational structure that’s been in place since the 1950s. The company additionally opened a new flagship store in Ginza Namikidori, Tokyo in December 2017.  Chanel also made unspecified investments in its manufacturing and distribution facilities to bolster agility and efficiencies and to boost innovation.

The company also specified the importance of responsible and sustainable business practices, noting that it invested in unspecified sustainability projects, “completed a green energy policy,” and embedded its human rights and environmental policies into its supply chain.

New policies were implemented, covering parental leave for women and men, as well as a strengthened commitment to company-wide diversity and inclusion, evidenced in a commitment to The Chanel Foundation, founded seven years ago to promote economic and social support for women and girls in “vulnerable conditions.” Chanel pledged that the foundation would invest more than $120 million in “advancing the role of women in society” over the next year.

News of Note in 2018

In March, Chanel announced that it would expand its distribution into select Ulta stores with an abbreviated assortment of lipstick, blush, foundation, and skincare products.

In June, the company sunk $81.5 million into the purchase of the 17-story Midtown East New York headquarters it’s leased since 1993.

In June, Chanel debuted Le Volume Révolution de Chanel, an innovative new mascara with the industry’s first 3D-printed brush.

The “honeycomb” wand, which is made by Erpro, a French 3D-printing company, is said to be designed to feature micro-reservoirs that facilitate optimum absorption and delivery of the mascara for long lasting, clump-free wear. The design was originally patented in 2007 and only now ready for production. According to Chanel, the 3D-printed brush eliminates traditional molds and can be replicated more efficiently, enabling the production of 50,000 brushes in 24 hours or roughly 1 million brushes per month. The formula is enriched with vitamins and a combination of rice wax, beeswax and nourishing, volumizing polymers that promise defined lashes that are soft and thick.

In September, Chanel entered the men’s makeup market with the launch of a three-product line called Boy de Chanel. Comprised of four shades of tinted foundation fluid, a matte moisturizing lip balm and four shades of eyebrow pencil, the line is a nod to Gabrielle Chanel’s use of men’s wardrobe elements in women’s fashion. Launched in September in South Korea, the company plans a worldwide roll out on Chanel’s e-commerce platforms beginning in January 2019.

In September, Chanel also announced that it would launch its iconic Chanel No. 5 L’eau and eau de parfum in limited edition red glass and crystal bottles. How limited? Just 55 red Baccarat crystal bottles will be made for the 900ml parfum.

Sales: 2.8 Billion

Corporate Sales: $5.1 billion (est.)

Beauty Sales: $2.8 billion (est.)

Major Products/Brands: Chanel No. 5, Allure, Allure Homme, Coco, Coco Mademoiselle, Chance, No.19, Cristalle, Pour Monsieur, Antaeus, Egoïste, Les Exclusifs, Bleu de Chanel; Sublimage, Ultra Correction Lift and Line Repair, Hydramax + Active, White Essentiel, Le Blanc, Hydra-Beauty; Rouge Allure, Rouge Coco, Le Vernis, Inimitable, Inimitable Intense, Les 4 Ombres, Vitalumière, Joues Contrastes.

New Products: Chanel No. 5 L’eau, Gabrielle Chanel eau de parfum; Les Beiges Color Collection; Mist It Anti-Fatigue Mist; Hydra Beauty Micro Serum; Hydra Beauty Micro Crème

Comments: The name Coco Chanel has long been synonymous with style. Revered as the original fashion icon, it was her own brand of chic that catalyzed the house of Chanel empire. This year Chanel paid homage to its founder by creating a new franchise around Coco’s alter-ego: Gabrielle, the woman who would became Coco.

The Gabrielle campaign is fronted by actress Kristen Stewart, who introduced the world to Gabrielle Chanel women’s perfume. Created by Olivier Polge in Chanel’s fragrance and creation laboratory, the scent is described as an “abstract floral” and was rolled out to 10,000 global fragrance venues. The perfume is one component of the Gabrielle brand franchise, which also includes handbags, jewelry and watches. Gabrielle is Chanel’s fifth “pillar” fragrance and joins No. 5, Coco and Chance.

The year also brought a refresh of No. 5, a scent targeting Millennials. The launch reportedly boosted the overall fragrance business. Chanel No. 5 L’Eau, also created by Olivier Polge, contains top notes of lemon, mandarin, orange, neroli and aldehydes; middle notes of rose, ylang-ylang and jasmine; and a drydown of cedar and white musk.

News of Note in 2017

This March, Chanel launched Hydra Beauty Micro Crème with camellia micro-droplets, hailed as an innovation by Chanel Research because it features a new “microfluid” form of emulsion for cosmetics with great potential for future applications. The emulsion droplets are structured in a way that protects fat-soluble active ingredients until application, instantly bursting upon application to moisturize the skin.

Chanel Research developed Hydra Beauty Micro Crème in partnership with the French start-up Capsum to specifically create a user experience that delivers a “sensory cascade” beginning with a “fresh feeling of water” followed by the richness of oil.

Because the formula was so delicate, the company devised a new manufacturing process and custom designed production lines that blended the droplets into the cream without splitting them, to ensure homogenous distribution.

Sales: 2.9 Billion

Corporate Sales: $6.2 billion
Beauty Sales: $2.9 billion (est., perfume and cosmetics)

Major Products/Brands: Chanel No. 5, Allure, Allure Homme, Coco, Coco Mademoiselle, Chance, No.19, Cristalle, Pour Monsieur, Antaeus, Egoïste, Les Exclusifs, Bleu de Chanel, Sublimage, Le Blanc, Hydra-Beauty, Rouge Coco, Le Vernis, Inimitable, Inimitable Intense, Les 4 Ombres, Vitalumière, Joues Contrastes.

New Products: Misia, Chanel No.5 Eau Pemiere, Chance Eau Vive, No.5 L’eau and Boy Chanel.

Comments: Chanel may be a fashion powerhouse but its couture fragrances, luxury skin care, treatment products and runway-ready seasonal color collections for eyes, lips and nails have a cult following among beauty consumers. Fiscally speaking though, in 2015, operating profits and revenues fell 22.7% and 16.9%, respectively. Sales of perfumes and cosmetics also reportedly sank 21%.

In April, Chanel sold its Bourjois brand to Coty for a reported 15.43 million shares of Coty’s Class A Common Stock—a deal valued at roughly $365 million (based on Coty’s stock price at the time of the deal), which also gave Chanel an estimated 4% interest in Coty’s mass market beauty powerhouse.

Last year Chanel added new iterations of a fragrance collection with the launch of Misia, Chanel No.5 Eau Premiere and Chance Eau Vive.

Chanel’s high-end, Les Exclusifs de Chanel fragrance range was broadened with the February launch of Misia, so named for Misia Sert, a trusted friend and muse of Coco Chanel. The powdery, floral juice is said to smell like the alluring scent of vintage, high-end makeup. Misia was the first fragrance developed by Perfumer Olivier Polge, who joined Chanel’s Fragrance Laboratory in 2013.

Launched in time for summer, Chanel No.5 Eau Premiere was a limited edition, a “younger and more modern version” of Chanel No.5. The lighter colored juice was presented in a new bottle housed in an outer carton that could be customized with a choice of 10 different graphic designs.

Chance Eau Vive is the latest edition to the successful Chance fragrance collection, which originated in 2003. This newest incarnation was launched in June and is available in 35-, 50- and 100ml EDT varieties.

In November, Chanel opened its first permanent beauty boutique in Paris. The 800-square-foot location at 40 Rue des Francs-Bourgeois in the Marais district was designed to be faithful to the spirit of Chanel’s founder Gabrielle Chanel and carries Chanel’s entire makeup, skin care, beauty and fragrance collection, as well as accessories. Company executives would not divulge revenue projections, but industry sources estimated the shop would generate first-year retail sales of $2.7 million.

News of Note in 2016

In June 2016, Chanel added a 17th fragrance to its Les Exclusifs collection with the fragrance, Boy Chanel. Developed by Olivier Polge, the scent is named for Arthur “Boy” Capel, Gabrielle Chanel’s lover and benefactor. Polge describes the fragrance not as unisex but as having more of a gender-bending duality; a masculine accord that is to be worn by women.

Polge also put his own personal stamp on Chanel’s classic No.5 fragrance with a launch of a new version of the iconic brand this past May. No.5 L’eau is billed as “paying tribute to the world’s most sold perfume with a contemporary olfactory approach.” The packaging remains true to the original bottle, and the new spokesmodel underscores the emphasis on youthfulness with the hire of 16-year old Lily Rose Depp, the daughter of Hollywood actor Johnny Depp.

Looking Ahead

At this year’s MakeUp in Paris panel, Isabelle Roatta, Chanel’s director of shopping projects, told the crowd that in their efforts toward sustainable packaging, Chanel has replaced all hazardous materials: “no PVC, opal glass with fluorine, and we use post-consumer materials whenever possible, as well as more abundant raw materials.” She also issued a challenge to potential packaging suppliers: “We [global brands] need to pool our needs—we need to go to a supplier [and ask] for a specific material to be developed.”

Sales: 2.5 Billion

Beauty Sales: $2.5 billion (est.)

Major Products/Brands: Luxury fragrances, skin care and color cosmetics sold in fine department and specialty stores, including Chanel No. 5, Allure, Allure Homme, Coco, Coco Mademoiselle, Chance, No.19, Cristalle, Pour Monsieur, Antaeus, Egoïste, Les Exclusifs, Bleu de Chanel, Sublimage, Le Blanc, Hydra-Beauty, Rouge Coco, Le Vernis, Inimitable, Inimitable Intense, Les 4 Ombres, Vitalumière, Joues Contrastes.

New Products: Blue Rhythm de Chanel cosmetics, Misia fragrance, Le Blanc Brightening Moisturizing Cream, Les 4 Ombres Eye Palette.

Comments: Luxurious and iconic, French brand Chanel continues to have prestige—particularly Europeans’ love of prestige fragrance—on its side, and retains its allure with consumers throughout the world, though Chanel N°5 has reportedly fallen in sales over the last few years. In 2014, the company went purely prestige when it sold its masstige Bourjois color cosmetics brand to Coty in a stock exchange deal. Bourjois products are sold through approximately 23,000 points of sale in more than 50 countries around the world.

Part of Chanel’s success is due to an exclusivity it maintains. Speaking at her alma mater, Yale, in 2014, Maureen Chiquet, global chief executive officer, noted that as Chanel is privately owned, it allows them to “focus on the quality of our products, on the beauty of our image, on the special designs that we have, on providing incredible customer service, and the way I look at it is, profit will come.” As a privately owned company, Chanel does not release sales figures.

News of Note

Chanel continues to launch new fragrances as it looks to boost N°5 sales.

Late in 2014, Chanel announced that Italian makeup artist Lucia Pica would serve as global creative makeup and color designer, replacing Peter Philips who had left the year before.

In March 2015, Chanel released Misia, a new fragrance named for a close friend of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. It was the first scent from Olivier Polge who took over from his father, Jacques Polge, as in-house fragrance creator at Chanel. Misia is the latest in Chanel’s Les Exclusifs line.

Chanel announced in May that it plans to open its first spa—dedicated to skin care— at the Ritz Paris, before the end of the year.

Gisele Bundchen appeared naked on Chanel billboards in June, publicizing Chanel N°5. Photographer Patrick Demarchelier created the print and billboard ad.

Just last month, Chanel paid tribute to the two recipients of its CE.R.I.E.S. Research Award. Both were lauded for their accomplishments in skin care.

Sales: 2.3 Billion

Beauty Sales: $2.3 billion (est.)

Major Products: Fragrances, skincare and cosmetics including Chanel No. 5, Allure, Allure Homme, Coco, Coco Mademoiselle, Chance, No.19, Cristalle, Pour Monsieur, Antaeus, Egoïste, Les Exclusifs, Bleu de Chanel, Sublimage, Ultra Correction Lift and Line Repair, White Essentiel, Le Blanc, Rouge Allure, Rouge Coco, Le Vernis, Inimitable, Les 4 Ombres, Vitalumière.
New Products: Le Volume de Chanel Mascara, Sublimage Ultimate Revitalizing and Light-Activating Concentrate, Le Lift Firming Anti-Wrinkle Serum and Eye Cream.

Comments: In 2013, German actress Diane Kruger came onboard as the face of Chanel’s beauty campaign, joining the luxury brand’s other striking ambassador, Brazilian fashion model Gisele Bundchen.

Whether in Singapore or New York, beauty consumers are drawn to Chanel products.

Chanel opened a number of beauty boutiques during the year, including its first in China. Another, boutique dedicated entirely to beauty products and fragrance, opened in the center of Paris on Rue St Honoré, which will offer makeup collections, exclusive colors and advance previews as well as a specialized fragrance service.

Christine Dagousset, former executive vice president of fragrance and beauté at Chanel in the U.S. division since 2005, was named global deputy general manager of Fragrance and Beauty, replacing Andrea d’Avack, who had served as global fragrance and beauté president since 1998. D’Avack will move from Paris to New York in 2015 to “take on a key new role in defining and developing the Chanel strategy for social responsibility and sustainable development,” said Maureen Chiquet, Chanel’s CEO, to whom d’Avack will continue to report.

Julien Gommichon succeeded Dagousset as executive vice president of the U.S. activity.

During the year, the fashion house’s Karl Lagerfeld, announced a new cosmetics venture featuring his Siamese cat Choupette, who is the inspiration behind a new makeup line the designer created for Shu Uemura. (Lagerfeld is known for using Shu Uemura makeup for his fashion sketches.)

Just last month, Chanel launched an e-commerce site dedicated to beauty in France, on chanel.com, where customers can review products, and purchase items from the entire Chanel range, which was previously reserved for a limited number of countries.

Each order comes with two samples and the service includes a free 40-day return policy and free shipping for products over 100 euro.

Chanel also launched an e-commerce site in the U.S., where there are exclusive offers on limited edition products.

At press time, Coty Inc. announced that it had made a binding offer to buy Chanel’s Bourjois cosmetics brand in exchange for 15 million Coty shares, or about $239 million.

Sales: 2 Billion

Beauty Sales: $2 billion (estimated)

Olivier Polge, Chanel’s new perfumer.

Major Products: Fragrances, skin care and color cosmetics.

New Products: Jeux de Regards Eye Collection, Bleu de Chanel deodorant, Le Blanc brightening makeup base, Coco Noir, Les Beiges makeup.

Comments: Not everyone can afford an iconic little black dress or a nubby jacket from one of the world’s most coveted fashion houses, but many of them get the thrill of the brand from pulling out an intertwined C-embellished cosmetics package from their purse. Or feel like a million bucks just by lathering on the creamy formulations or applying a richly hued lipstick.

As demand in the luxury marketplace broke records last year, Chanel reaped the benefits—in part, because the eponymous originator of style continues to reign. In 2012, at the annual Fragrance Foundation Awards, the evening’s ceremony included the posthumous induction of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel into the (then) FiFi Hall of Fame. Christine Dagousset, U.S. executive vice president, fragrance & beauty, Chanel delivered a tribute.

Chanel continues to rev up its beauty division in the U.S., with a long-range plan and a number of executive appointments. Early in the year, it was announced that Christine Dagousset, then executive vice president of fragrance and beauté at Chanel Inc. in the U.S., had been named as the successor to Andrea d’Avack, who had served as global fragrance and beauté president since 1998. D’Avack will relocate from Paris to New York in 2015 to “take on a key new role in defining and developing the Chanel strategy for social responsibility and sustainable development,” according to Maureen Chiquet, Chanel’s chief executive officer, to whom d’Avack will continue to report. Dagousset is scheduled to return to Paris by January 2014 as global deputy general manager for fragrance and beauté, working with d’Avack in a transition phase. In 2015, Dagousset will be named global president, fragrance and beauté, with strategic authority for the division.

Just last month, Chanel Inc.’s U.S. Fragrance & Beauté Division announced that Julien Gommichon was named executive vice president of Fragrance & Beauté, succeeding Christine Dagousset.
At the same time, Aude Appolinaire was named senior vice president of sales, Fragrance & Beauté.

While the U.S. division seems to be spreading its wings, Chiquet, speaking at an Asia Society event in January, said the brand is not in a hurry to expand in China, because they want to remain “exclusive.” She said they wanted to take their time and do it right. The brand currently has 12 stores in seven cities in mainland China.

Following a lukewarm campaign featuring Brad Pitt—the first man to feature as the face of the brand—Chanel, in April, tapped actress and former fashion model Diane Kruger to front the Chanel beauty campaign.

This summer, Chanel made a change in its key perfumer—but not a name change. Olivier Polge entered Chanel as a perfumer, joining his father, Jacques Polge, and Christopher Sheldrake in the brand’s laboratory. As perfumer at IFF since 1998, Olivier Polge has developed internationally successful fragrances for a number of leading luxury brands and houses. His father, Jacques Polge, creator of Chanel fragrances, has served in his role since 1978.

The company also hired well-known dermatologist Dr. Amy Wechsler to consult on skin care.
The brand continues with its exclusivity and appeal: Chanel was named the most-wanted luxury brand in 2012 by Chinese women, according to Boston-based consultancy Bain & Co.

Sales: 2.5 Billion

Beauty Sales: $2.5 billion (estimate)

Key Personnel: Alain and Gerald Werthheimer, co-owners; Maureen Chiquet, chief executive officer; Andrea d’Avack, president, Chanel Fragrance & Beauty; Christine Dagousset, executive vice president of fragrance and beauté, Chanel U.S.

Major Products: Fragrance, skin care and color cosmetics under brands including Chanel No 5, Allure, Allure Homme, Coco, Coco Mademoiselle, Chance, No 19, Bleu de Chanel, Sublimage, Ultra Correction Lift and Line Repair, Rouge Allure, Rouge Coco, Le Vernis, Les 4 Ombres, Illusions d’Ombre, Vitalumière.

New Products: Chanel Perfection Lumière, Chanel Les 4 Ombres Quadra Eye Shadow, Chanel Hydra Beauty Serum, Chanel Coco Noir EDP Spray, Allure Homme Sport, Bleu de Chanel Deodorant Spray, Sublimage La Crème, Le Volume de Chanel Mascara.

After 90 years, Chanel No 5 goes for a male face with Brad Pitt.

Comments: Classics still reign when it comes to fragrance—and that fact, as well as an uptick in the prestige market in general, contributed to another prosperous year for Chanel, both in the U.S. and globally. The iconic brand continues to gain avid followers. Fragrance accounts for more than half of Chanel’s sales, followed by makeup and skin care, in which new entries keep rolling into premium outlets, and many prove to be winners with consumers.

According to The NPD Group/BeautyTrends, in Fragrance for annual 2011 (according to dollars sold), Chanel was ranked No. 1 in Total Prestige Fragrance and Total Women’s Prestige Fragrance. It was ranked at No. 3 for men’s Total Prestige Fragrance.

For year-to-date 2012 January through August, Chanel was ranked No. 1 again in Total Prestige Fragrance and Women’s. It was ranked at No. 2 for Men’s.

For prestige makeup in both time periods, The NPD Group reported that Chanel is ranked among the top five in makeup brands. For prestige skincare in both time periods, Chanel places among the top 10 in skincare brands.

In the Brand Keys 2012 survey, Chanel ranked No. 3 in both Luxury Cosmetics and Luxury Facial Moisturizer among 50 contenders overall.

Chanel Inc.’s Illusion d’Ombre Long-wear Luminous Eyeshadow won the 2012 CEW Beauty Award for Eye Product Prestige.

In May, Chanel gave a new edge to its 90+ year old iconic brand, signing Oscar nominee Brad Pitt as the new face of the classic scent Chanel No 5. Former famous Chanel No. 5 faces include Nicole Kidman and Audrey Tautou. Pitt’s ad campaign will no doubt rival that of his predecessors when it appears this month.

Earlier this year, Chanel won a Fragrance Foundation FiFi award in the Women’s Media Campaign for Coco Mademoiselle, which just happened to be the best-selling women’s scent in the U.S. last year, according The NPD Group. Coming in at No. 4 was Chanel No 5. On the men’s side, Chanel’s Bleu de Chanel was the No. 2 selling scent.

Other notable honors of this year’ ode to fragrance included the posthumous induction of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel into the FiFi Hall of Fame, with a tribute from the brand’s Christine Dagousset

Recently, Chanel cosmetics agreed to return to the Lotte Department Store in Seoul, after nearly a three-year absence. Apparently, Lotte had asked Chanel to downsize and relocate its cosmetics booth due to slow sales at the time. Subsequently the brand withdrew from all Lotte stores.

Sales: 1.5 Billion

Beauty Sales: $1.5 billion (estimated)

Major Products: Skin care, cosmetics and fragrances. Women’s scents include Chanel No. 5, No. 19, Coco, Coco Mademoiselle, Chance, Chance eau Fraîche, Chance eau Tendre, Allure Sensuelle. Men’s scents include Allure Homme, Blanche, Égoiste, Pour Monsieur Antaeus.

Will Bleu de Chanel become Chanel’s next masterbrand?

New Products: Les Khakis de Chanel, Rouge Allure Extrait de Gloss, Coco Mademoiselle Moisturizing Body Lotion and Foaming Shower Gel, Ultra Correction eye lift cream, Les Trompe L’Oeil de Chanel temporary tattoos, Bleu de Chanel.

Comments: While virtually no company survived 2009 unscathed, Chanel epitomized the year’s trend in which select high-end products continued to grab consumers’ attention and enticed them to open their wallet—perhaps as a way of feeling good by indulging on a single prestige purchase. Chanel No. 5 continues to hold its remarkable allure, remaining the best-selling scent in the world. Reportedly, 10 million bottles are sold worldwide every year.

That success is now mirrored in the new Chanel boutique in New York City’s SoHo district, which features a 10-ft tall Chanel No. 5 bottle made of acrylic. LED lights on the bottle display video art and the latest runway shows from Paris.

On a smaller scale, as a nod to sustainability, Chanel now offers a refillable EDT of No. 5.

This fall, Chanel launched what it hopes will be as big a hit for men. Bleu de Chanel is described as the prestige brand’s first major male fragrance since 2004’s Allure Homme Sport and its first men’s masterbrand since 1990’s Egoïste. Perhaps topping its history of collaborating with renowned movie directors for its dramatic advertising campaigns, Bleu’s masculine appeal is portrayed by French heartthrob actor Gaspard Ulliel in a film directed by Martin Scorsese.

In July, Chanel received a 2010 FiFi Award for its show-stopping film promoting Chanel No. 5; the company was honored for Best Women’s Media Campaign: Chanel No.5 “No.5: Train de Nuit,” which stars French actress Audrey Tautou.

In October, Chanel made the cosmetics grade, winning Best Lip Color: Chanel Rouge Coco Hydrating Creme Lip Colour in Neiman Marcus’ first-ever NM Beauty Awards, an online poll in which customers vote for their favorite beauty products.

Sales: 3 Billion

Beauty Sales: $3 billion

Major Products: Skin care, cosmetics and fine fragrances.

New Products: Cristalle eau Verte fragrance; Symphonie Blanche de Chanel; Rouge Allure Laque; Cristalle eau verte; Lumiéres Célestes Collection lipgloss.

Comments: The notion that “Chanel never goes on sale” faded away when a sign with the four-letter S-word drew attention in the window of the brand’s Soho, Manhattan location, reflecting the reality of the times. How has the très chic brand’s beauty category fared? It’s difficult to know for sure. As Chanel is a privately held company, it does not report sales figures, but industry sources estimate the company’s cosmetics and fragrance sales reached an estimated $3 billion in 2008.

The luxury goods purveyor took additional steps to counteract the global economic pinch. At the end of 2008, Chanel announced it would cut 200 jobs, or 10% of its work force. According to The NPD’s annual ranking of leading brands by sales, the French house of style captured the No. 4 position for fragrance company; No. 5 for makeup brand, and No. 7 for skin care brand. (NPD clarifies by adding that, in fragrance, Chanel has a much more edited portfolio of brands—primarily three brands—compared to other companies in the top 10; in makeup and skin care, Chanel is in more selective distribution, typically less than 1,000 doors compared to over 2,000 door for some other brands in the top 10.)

Coco Mademoiselle ranked as one of the top five fragrance brands in 2008, according to NPD.

Outside the U.S., the brand reportedly holds a bestseller position in France, Italy, Japan and China.

In 2008, makeup artist Peter Philips was named as Chanel’s new creative director of color cosmetics, filling the shoes of Heidi Morawetz and Dominique Moncourtois, who innovated the brand’s makeup collection for 30 years.

This summer, the company opened its first dedicated fragrance boutique in Selfridges, the London department store.

Five years after the mini-film uniting Baz Luhrmann and Nicole Kidman, Chanel released a sequel mini-movie starring its No.5 scent, this time featuring the director Jean- Pierre Jeunet and French star, Audrey Tautou, traveling from Paris to Istanbul aboard the Orient Express. Tautou also plays the lead of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in “Coco Avant Chanel,” a recently released feature film, which no doubt adds to the brand’s allure. In September, after less than a year of heading the art direction of Chanel’s makeup and watch businesses, Ezra Petronio left the company.

Sales: 2.5 Billion

Beauty Sales: $2.5 billion (estimated) for cosmetics, toiletries and fragrances.

Products/Brands: Skin care, color cosmetics and fine fragrances.

New Products: Skin care—Sublimage Essential Regenerating Cream, anti-pollution cleansers and toners; Color cosmetics—Lift Lumiere Firming and Smoothing Fluid Makeup, Facettes d’or nail color; Fragrance—Coco Mademoiselle 2008, Chanel Beige, No. 5 Eau Première.

Comments: The French retailer synonymous with iconic good taste continues to lure customers with its luxurious products and classic packaging. Recently, the privately held international trendsetter boosted its profile in its largest U.S. market—and its floor space—in Manhattan’s Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman stores. On the main floor in Saks, a largely expanded cosmetics counter has taken shape as an 850-square-foot fragrance and cosmetics shop, the largest of any brand. Portraits of Coco Chanel as well as sophisticated decorative touches set the stage and a new, patented olfactive bar makes it easy to sample fragrances. Chanel will reportedly also redesign its SoHo store. In addition, the company has enhanced its presence with a mobile art exhibit located in a futuristic-looking pavilion in Central Park.

While the latest fragrance, Beige, has launched as a limited edition, the classic scents still reign. Coco Mademoiselle and Chanel No. 5 were among the top five prestige fragrances preferred by consumers according to an NPD Group survey taken earlier this year. Chanel No. 5 is said to be the top-selling perfume of all time. Starting in 2009, “Amelie” star Audrey Tautou will replace Nicole Kidman as the face of the popular scent. In June, Chanel signed a deal with British actress Emma Watson, making her the new face of Coco Mademoiselle; she replaces Keira Knightley.

In 2007, Chanel tried a different sales approach in a mall in Australia. For the first time, the French retailer moved outside department stores and set up shop in the middle of an upscale mall in Westfield Bondi Junction, offering its full range of fragrance and beauty products. The thought is that Chanel wants to strengthen its sales of lipstick and nail polish—the entry points in the line—and build upon it with fragrance and beauty products. Plans were for the boutiques to have a limited run.

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